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      Discovery of new depigmenting compounds and their efficacy to treat hyperpigmentation: Evidence from in vitro study

      1 , 2 , 3 , 1 , 2
      Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
      Wiley

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          Abstract

          Human skin pigmentation is a result of constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Facultative pigmentation is frequently stimulated by UV radiation, pharmacologic drugs, and hormones whereby leads to the development of abnormal skin hyperpigmentation. To date, many state-of-art depigmenting compounds have been studied using in vitro model to treat hyperpigmentation problems for cosmetic dermatological applications; little attention has been made to compare the effectiveness of these depigmenting compounds and their mode of actions. In this present article, new and recent depigmenting compounds, their melanogenic pathway targets, and modes of action are reviewed. This article compares the effectiveness of these new depigmenting compounds to modulate several melanogenesis-regulatory enzymes and proteins such as tyrosinase (TYR), TYR-related protein-1 (TRP1), TYR-related protein-2 (TRP2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and N-terminal kinases (JNK) and mitogen-activated protein kinase p38 (p38 MAPK). Other evidences from in vitro assays such as inhibition on melanosomal transfer, proteasomes, nitric oxide, and inflammation-induced melanogenesis are also highlighted. This article also reviews analytical techniques in different assays performed using in vitro model as well as their advantages and limitations. This article also provides an insight on recent finding and re-examination of some protocols as well as their effectiveness and reliability in the evaluation of depigmenting compounds. Evidence and support from related patents are also incorporated in this present article to give an overview on current patented technology, latest trends, and intellectual values of some depigmenting compounds and protocols, which are rarely highlighted in the literatures.

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          The biology of hair follicles.

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            Melanosomes are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes through the processes of packaging, release, uptake, and dispersion.

            Recent studies have described the role of shedding vesicles as physiological conveyers of intracellular components between neighboring cells. Here we report that melanosomes are one example of shedding vesicle cargo, but are processed by a previously unreported mechanism. Pigment globules were observed to be connected to the filopodia of melanocyte dendrites, which have previously been shown to be conduits for melanosomes. Pigment globules containing multiple melanosomes were released from various areas of the dendrites of normal human melanocytes derived from darkly pigmented skin. The globules were then captured by the microvilli of normal human keratinocytes, also derived from darkly pigmented skin, which incorporated them in a protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2)-dependent manner. After the pigment globules were ingested by the keratinocytes, the membrane that surrounded each melanosome cluster was gradually degraded, and the individual melanosomes then spread into the cytosol and were distributed primarily in the perinuclear area of each keratinocyte. These results suggest a melanosome transfer pathway wherein melanosomes are transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes via the shedding vesicle system. This packaging system generates pigment globules containing multiple melanosomes in a unique manner.
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              The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin-lightening agents--existing and new approaches.

              Skin-lightening products are commercially available for cosmetic purposes to obtain lighter skin complexion. Clinically, they are also used for treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders such as melasma, café au lait spot and solar lentigo. All of these target naturally melanin production, and many of the commonly used agents are known as competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase, one of the key enzymes in melanogenesis. In this review, we present an overview of commonly used skin-whitening ingredients that are commercialized, but we also hypothesize on other mechanisms that could be important targets to control skin pigmentation such as for example regulation of the adrenergic and glutaminergic signalling and also control of tetrahydrobiopterins in the human skin. © 2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.
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                Author and article information

                Journal
                Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
                J Cosmet Dermatol
                Wiley
                1473-2130
                1473-2165
                August 29 2018
                June 2019
                March 13 2019
                June 2019
                : 18
                : 3
                : 703-727
                Affiliations
                [1 ]Department of Bioprocess Technology, Faculty of Biotechnology and Biomolecular Sciences Universiti Putra Malaysia Serdang Malaysia
                [2 ]Bioprocessing and Biomanufacturing Research Center, Faculty of Biotechnology and Biomolecular Sciences Universiti Putra Malaysia Serdang Malaysia
                [3 ]Institute of Bioscience Universiti Putra Malaysia Serdang Malaysia
                Article
                10.1111/jocd.12900
                30866156
                ca06bec4-6f42-4116-b10e-76b6e9d967df
                © 2019

                http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/termsAndConditions#vor

                http://doi.wiley.com/10.1002/tdm_license_1.1

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