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      The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

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          Abstract

          A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH 2), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

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          Most cited references27

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          Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

          The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.
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            Skin anti-aging strategies

            Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic and exogenous or extrinsic factors. Because of the fact that skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors representing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans, several anti-aging strategies have been developed during the last years. It is the intention of this article to review the most important anti-aging strategies that dermatologists have nowadays in hand, including including preventive measurements, cosmetological strategies, topical and systemic therapeutic agents and invasive procedures.
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              Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy

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                Author and article information

                Journal
                Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol
                Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol
                ccid
                Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology
                Dove
                1178-7015
                14 December 2022
                2022
                : 15
                : 2693-2703
                Affiliations
                [1 ]Department of Neurofarba, Section of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Nutraceutics, University of Florence , Florence, Italy
                [2 ]Skinsoul Advanced Dermatology and Medical Aesthetics , Quezon City, Metro Manila, Philippines
                [3 ]DERMING S.r.l., Clinical Research and Bioengineering Institute , Milan, Italy
                [4 ]Beilin Consultant , Paris, France
                [5 ]Vindoc Aesthetics Academy , London, UK
                [6 ]Department of Dermatology, Makati Medical Center , Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines
                Author notes
                Correspondence: Dennis Malvin Hernandez Malgapo, Skinsoul Advanced Dermatology and Medical Aesthetics , Spark Place P. Tuazon Blvd, Cubao, Quezon City, Metro Manila, 1109, Philippines, Tel +63 928 6745699, Email dmhmalgapo@hotmail.com
                Author information
                http://orcid.org/0000-0001-9577-5228
                http://orcid.org/0000-0002-7430-1688
                http://orcid.org/0000-0002-8825-8705
                Article
                374295
                10.2147/CCID.S374295
                9760069
                78baae25-5779-4365-aa73-59087d17d179
                © 2022 Rovero et al.

                This work is published and licensed by Dove Medical Press Limited. The full terms of this license are available at https://www.dovepress.com/terms.php and incorporate the Creative Commons Attribution – Non Commercial (unported, v3.0) License ( http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/). By accessing the work you hereby accept the Terms. Non-commercial uses of the work are permitted without any further permission from Dove Medical Press Limited, provided the work is properly attributed. For permission for commercial use of this work, please see paragraphs 4.2 and 5 of our Terms ( https://www.dovepress.com/terms.php).

                History
                : 14 July 2022
                : 14 September 2022
                Page count
                Figures: 6, Tables: 2, References: 33, Pages: 11
                Categories
                Review

                Dermatology
                kp1,prejuvenation,aging skin,aging well,anti-aging,sa1-iii
                Dermatology
                kp1, prejuvenation, aging skin, aging well, anti-aging, sa1-iii

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