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      Vegetable moisturizing raw material from “Caatinga” Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

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          Abstract

          The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

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          Application of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions.

          T Tadros (2004)
          This review deals with the use of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions. It starts with an introduction, highlighting the importance of having accelerated test to predict emulsion stability. This is followed by a section on the stability/instability of emulsion systems, giving a brief summary of the driving force of each instability process and its prevention. The classical techniques that can be applied for assessment of creaming or sedimentation, flocculation, Ostwald ripening, coalescence and phase inversion are briefly described. This is followed by several sections on the application of rheological techniques to assess and predict each of these instabilities. This involves the use of steady state shear stress-shear rate measurements, constant stress (creep) measurements and dynamic (oscillatory) techniques. The last section gives an example of model emulsions to illustrate the correlation between the various break-down processes with the rheological characteristics of the system.
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            Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products.

            Polyphenols are secondary plant metabolites with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity. They are ubiquitously distributed in the plant kingdom; high amounts contain, for example, green tea and grape seeds. Polyphenolic extracts are attractive ingredients for cosmetics and pharmacy due to their beneficial biological properties. This review summarizes the effects of polyphenols in the context of anti-ageing activity. We have explored in vitro studies, which investigate antioxidant activity, inhibition of dermal proteases and photoprotective activity, mostly studied using dermal fibroblasts or epidermal keratinocytes cell lines. Possible negative effects of polyphenols were also discussed. Further, some physicochemical aspects, namely the possible interactions with emulsifiers and the influence of the cosmetic formulation on the skin delivery, were reported. Finally, few clinical studies, which cover the anti-ageing action of polyphenols on the skin after topical application, were reviewed.
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              An experimental study of stability of oil–water emulsion

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                Author and article information

                Contributors
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                Journal
                bjps
                Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences
                Braz. J. Pharm. Sci.
                Universidade de São Paulo, Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas (São Paulo, SP, Brazil )
                2175-9790
                April 2019
                : 54
                : 4
                : e17720
                Affiliations
                [1] Petrópolis Rio Grande do Norte orgnameUniversidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte orgdiv1College of Pharmacy Brazil
                [4] Recife Pernambuco orgnameUniversidade Federal de Pernambuco Brazil
                [3] Ribeirão Preto orgnameUniversidade de São Paulo orgdiv1Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto orgdiv2Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences Brazil
                [2] Woolloongabba Queensland orgnameUniversity of Queensland orgdiv1School of Medicine orgdiv2Therapeutics Research Centre Australia
                Article
                S1984-82502018000400624
                10.1590/s2175-97902018000417720
                b976edc8-d543-4056-ac30-3a5c9a1fbb25

                This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

                History
                : 23 November 2017
                : 09 April 2018
                Page count
                Figures: 0, Tables: 0, Equations: 0, References: 39, Pages: 0
                Product

                SciELO Brazil

                Categories
                Articles

                Cosmetics/products,Kalanchoe brasiliensis/extract/safety evaluation,Kalanchoe brasiliensis/moisturizing efficacy,Stability studies,Brazil/plants

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