Significance A high-quality genome assembly of Camellia sinensis var. sinensis facilitates genomic, transcriptomic, and metabolomic analyses of the quality traits that make tea one of the world’s most-consumed beverages. The specific gene family members critical for biosynthesis of key tea metabolites, monomeric galloylated catechins and theanine, are indicated and found to have evolved specifically for these functions in the tea plant lineage. Two whole-genome duplications, critical to gene family evolution for these two metabolites, are identified and dated, but are shown to account for less amplification than subsequent paralogous duplications. These studies lay the foundation for future research to understand and utilize the genes that determine tea quality and its diversity within tea germplasm.