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Abstract
Radix astragali, a well-known Chinese herb, which has been traditionally used for
skincare, and microbial fermentation is one of the conventional methods for processing
Chinese herbs.
This research studied the effects of non-fermented (HQNB) and fermented preparations
(HQB) of Radix astragali on hyaluronic acid (HA) production in primary human skin
cells.
HQB and HQNB were prepared and added to the cultures of primary human skin cells.
Hyaluronic acid content was determined using ELISA. Real-time RT-PCR was used to evaluate
hyaluronan synthase gene expression. The bioactive compounds were analyzed by HPLC.
The growth-stimulating effect of HQNB on both of keratinocytes and fibroblasts were
significantly higher than that of HQB. Conversely, HQB, but not HQNB significantly
stimulated HA production in both cultured primary human epidermal keratinocytes and
human dermal fibroblasts in dose-dependent manners. In addition, HQB markedly and
dose-dependently increased the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 and hyaluronan
synthase 2 mRNA in HaCaT cells and human fibroblasts, respectively. Therefore, HQB
might be a promising candidate for preventing the age-dependent loss of HA content
in aged human skin, and its effect on the enhancement of HA synthesis in skin cells
is highly related to its effect on the expression of hyaluronan synthase genes. The
three major active isoflavonoids in Radix astragali were identified as ononin, calycosin,
and formononetin. After fermentation, all of these three compounds in HQB were significantly
reduced. However, HQB still had significantly higher enhancement effect on the production
of HA than HQNB. It appeared that isoflavonoid aglycones or other metabolites, converted
from their primary isoflavones during fermentation, might be responsible for the skincare
functions found in this study.
This study demonstrated the low toxicity and the stimulating effects of HQB on HA
synthesis, and suggests that HQB may play a promising role in anti-aging cosmetic
applications.