Organogel of Acai Oil in Cosmetics: Microstructure, Stability, Rheology and Mechanical Properties

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Abstract

Organogel (OG) is a semi-solid material composed of gelling molecules organized in the presence of an appropriate organic solvent, through physical or chemical interactions, in a continuous net. This investigation aimed at preparing and characterizing an organogel from acai oil with hyaluronic acid (HA) structured by 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), aiming at topical anti-aging application. Organogels containing or not containing HA were analyzed by Fourier-transform Infrared Spectroscopy, polarized light optical microscopy, thermal analysis, texture analysis, rheology, HA quantification and oxidative stability. The organogel containing hyaluronic acid (OG + HA) has a spherulitic texture morphology with a net-like structure and absorption bands that evidenced the presence of HA in the three-dimensional net of organogel. The thermal analysis confirmed the gelation and the insertion of HA, as well as a good thermal stability, which is also confirmed by the study of oxidative stability carried out under different temperature conditions for 90 days. The texture and rheology studies indicated a viscoelastic behavior. HA quantification shows the efficiency of the HA cross-linking process in the three-dimensional net of organogel with 11.22 µg/mL for cross-linked HA. Thus, it is concluded that OG + HA shows potentially promising physicochemical characteristics for the development of a cosmetic system.

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Hyaluronan: its nature, distribution, functions and turnover.

J. Fraser, T C Laurent, U. Laurent (1997)

Hyaluronan is a polysaccharide found in all tissues and body fluids of vertebrates as well as in some bacteria. It is a linear polymer of exceptional molecular weight, especially abundant in loose connective tissue. Hyaluronan is synthesized in the cellular plasma membrane. It exists as a pool associated with the cell surface, another bound to other matrix components, and a largely mobile pool. A number of proteins, the hyaladherins, specifically recognize the hyaluronan structure. Interactions of this kind bind hyaluronan with proteoglycans to stabilize the structure of the matrix, and with cell surfaces to modify cell behaviour. Because of the striking physicochemical properties of hyaluronan solutions, various physiological functions have been assigned to it, including lubrication, water homeostasis, filtering effects and regulation of plasma protein distribution. In animals and man, the half-life of hyaluronan in tissues ranges from less than 1 to several days. It is catabolized by receptor-mediated endocytosis and lysosomal degradation either locally or after transport by lymph to lymph nodes which degrade much of it. The remainder enters the general circulation and is removed from blood, with a half-life of 2-5 min, mainly by the endothelial cells of the liver sinuoids.

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Hyaluronic Acid: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Trajectory

Ramesh C Gupta, Rajiv Lall, Ajay Srivastava … (2019)

Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate) is naturally found in many tissues and fluids, but more abundantly in articular cartilage and synovial fluid (SF). Hyaluronic acid (HA) content varies widely in different joints and species. HA is a non-sulfated, naturally occurring non-protein glycosaminoglycan (GAG), with distinct physico-chemical properties, produced by synoviocytes, fibroblasts, and chondrocytes. HA has an important role in the biomechanics of normal SF, where it is partially responsible for lubrication and viscoelasticity of the SF. The concentration of HA and its molecular weight (MW) decline as osteoarthritis (OA) progresses with aging. For that reason, HA has been used for more than four decades in the treatment of OA in dogs, horses and humans. HA produces anti-arthritic effects via multiple mechanisms involving receptors, enzymes and other metabolic pathways. HA is also used in the treatment of ophthalmic, dermal, burns, wound repair, and other health conditions. The MW of HA appears to play a critical role in the formulation of the products used in the treatment of diseases. This review provides a mechanism-based rationale for the use of HA in some disease conditions with special reference to OA.