Oily Skin: An Overview

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Abstract

Oily skin (seborrhea) is a common cosmetic problem that occurs when oversized sebaceous glands produce excessive amounts of sebum giving the appearance of shiny and greasy skin. This paper overviews the main concepts of sebaceous gland anatomy and physiology, including the biosynthesis, storage and release of sebum, as well as its relationship to skin hydration and water barrier function. We also address how skin oiliness may vary according to diet, age, gender, ethnicity and hot humid climates. The deeper understanding of this skin type provides the opportunity to better guide patients regarding skin care and also assist in the development of sebosuppressive agents.

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Most cited references 48

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Skin lipids: their biochemical uniqueness.

Andrew N. Nicolaides (1974)

Two key words characterize the uniqueness of skin lipids: complexity and perversity. Each suggests a function. Complexity manifests itself in the large number and variety of both saturated and unsaturated fatty chains synthesized by human skin. Functionally, this allows each individual to have a distinct odor or chemical fingerprint. Perversity manifests itself when one compares the lipids synthesized by skin with those synthesized by internal tissues. For example, skin makes odd instead of only even chains, branched instead of only straight chains, free instead of only esterified acids, places double bonds in unusual positions in the fatty chains, extends chains to extreme lengths, and accumulates intermediates in the synthesis of a biologically valuable compound such as cholesterol. Functionally, these products may pose metabolic problems to potential pathogens and thus contribute to the survival of only compatible microorganisms.

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Acne and sebaceous gland function.

Christos Zouboulis (2015)

The embryologic development of the human sebaceous gland is closely related to the differentiation of the hair follicle and the epidermis. The number of sebaceous glands remains approximately the same throughout life, whereas their size tends to increase with age. The development and function of the sebaceous gland in the fetal and neonatal periods appear to be regulated by maternal androgens and by endogenous steroid synthesis, as well as by other morphogens. The most apparent function of the glands is to excrete sebum. A strong increase in sebum excretion occurs a few hours after birth; this peaks during the first week and slowly subsides thereafter. A new rise takes place at about age 9 years with adrenarche and continues up to age 17 years, when the adult level is reached. The sebaceous gland is an important formation site of active androgens. Androgens are well known for their effects on sebum excretion, whereas terminal sebocyte differentiation is assisted by peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor ligands. Estrogens, glucocorticoids, and prolactin also influence sebaceous gland function. In addition, stress-sensing cutaneous signals lead to the production and release of corticotrophin-releasing hormone from dermal nerves and sebocytes with subsequent dose-dependent regulation of sebaceous nonpolar lipids. Among other lipid fractions, sebaceous glands have been shown to synthesize considerable amounts of free fatty acids without exogenous influence. Sebaceous lipids are responsible for the three-dimensional skin surface lipid organization. Contributing to the integrity of the skin barrier. They also exhibit strong innate antimicrobial activity, transport antioxidants to the skin surface, and express proinflammatory and anti-inflammatory properties. Acne in childhood has been suggested to be strongly associated with the development of severe acne during adolescence. Increased sebum excretion is a major factor in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris. Other sebaceous gland functions are also associated with the development of acne, including sebaceous proinflammatory lipids; different cytokines produced locally; periglandular peptides and neuropeptides, such as corticotrophin-releasing hormone, which is produced by sebocytes; and substance P, which is expressed in the nerve endings at the vicinity of healthy-looking glands of acne patients. Current data indicate that acne vulgaris may be a primary inflammatory disease. Future drugs developed to treat acne not only should reduce sebum production and Propionibacterium acnes populations, but also should be targeted to reduce proinflammatory lipids in sebum, down-regulate proinflammatory signals in the pilosebaceous unit, and inhibit leukotriene B(4)-induced accumulation of inflammatory cells. They should also influence peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor regulation. Isotretinoin is still the most active available drug for the treatment of severe acne.

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Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis.

K Feingold (2007)

The permeability barrier is required for terrestrial life and is localized to the stratum corneum, where extracellular lipid membranes inhibit water movement. The lipids that constitute the extracellular matrix have a unique composition and are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Essential fatty acid deficiency results in abnormalities in stratum corneum structure function. The lipids are delivered to the extracellular space by the secretion of lamellar bodies, which contain phospholipids, glucosylceramides, sphingomyelin, cholesterol, and enzymes. In the extracellular space, the lamellar body lipids are metabolized by enzymes to the lipids that form the lamellar membranes. The lipids contained in the lamellar bodies are derived from both epidermal lipid synthesis and extracutaneous sources. Inhibition of cholesterol, fatty acid, ceramide, or glucosylceramide synthesis adversely affects lamellar body formation, thereby impairing barrier homeostasis. Studies have further shown that the elongation and desaturation of fatty acids is also required for barrier homeostasis. The mechanisms that mediate the uptake of extracutaneous lipids by the epidermis are unknown, but keratinocytes express LDL and scavenger receptor class B type 1, fatty acid transport proteins, and CD36. Topical application of physiologic lipids can improve permeability barrier homeostasis and has been useful in the treatment of cutaneous disorders.

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Author and article information

Journal

Journal ID (publisher-id): SPP

Journal ID (nlm-ta): Skin Pharmacol Physiol

Journal ID (doi): 10.1159/issn.1660-5527

Title: Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Publisher: S. Karger AG

ISSN (Print): 1660-5527

ISSN (Electronic): 1660-5535

Publication date Subscription-year: 2012

Publication date (Print): August 2012

Publication date (Electronic): 20 June 2012

Volume: 25

Issue: 5

Pages: 227-235

Affiliations

University of California, San Francisco, Calif., USA

Author notes

*Thais H. Sakuma, 252 Swain Way, Palo Alto, CA 94304 (USA), Tel. +1 650 919 4842, E-Mail thais.sakuma@gmail.com

Article

Publisher ID: 338978 Other ID: Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2012;25:227–235

DOI: 10.1159/000338978

PubMed ID: 22722766

SO-VID: 1d1d15d0-da90-48d9-83a0-9cc6fa569856

License:

Copyright: All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be translated into other languages, reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, microcopying, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Drug Dosage: The authors and the publisher have exerted every effort to ensure that drug selection and dosage set forth in this text are in accord with current recommendations and practice at the time of publication. However, in view of ongoing research, changes in government regulations, and the constant flow of information relating to drug therapy and drug reactions, the reader is urged to check the package insert for each drug for any changes in indications and dosage and for added warnings and precautions. This is particularly important when the recommended agent is a new and/or infrequently employed drug. Disclaimer: The statements, opinions and data contained in this publication are solely those of the individual authors and contributors and not of the publishers and the editor(s). The appearance of advertisements or/and product references in the publication is not a warranty, endorsement, or approval of the products or services advertised or of their effectiveness, quality or safety. The publisher and the editor(s) disclaim responsibility for any injury to persons or property resulting from any ideas, methods, instructions or products referred to in the content or advertisements.

History

Date received : 18 July 2011

Date accepted : 20 April 2012

Page count

Tables: 1, Pages: 9

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Oily Skin: An Overview

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Abstract

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Karger: Dermatology

Most cited references 48

Skin lipids: their biochemical uniqueness.

Acne and sebaceous gland function.

Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis.

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